controlling external LED arrays with Procyon

[~Brainwave~]

Hi Scott,

Your idea looks intriguing I was wondering how you are getting on developing the design?

Mike

[electronguy]

Design coming along great! Have decided to use a pre-regulator (LM2596) followed by a ultra-fast low-dropout linear device (LM1897)--don't quote me on the exact parts--I'm going off the top of my head as to what they are. Now, the heatsink requirements have been mitigated significantly and I don't need to have large smokestacks in order to play with the lights

This semester is a real drain on my time (robot dynamics, senior capstone design, and a bunch of other stuff), but I'm whittling away at this as time permits and a design will be ready before long...

Ciao,

--Scott

[craighome]

Good to hear progress Scott. Looking forward to updates

[electronguy]

After hours of searching for "just the right" switching pre-regulator, I've given up with saving power and decided to give you all what I've been promising for years (?).

Please find attached a .zip archive that contains the PCB artwork, as well as the schematic and Gerber files (should someone want to have the boards made at a PCB shop). I have tried to annotate the PCB and schematic as much as possible, and the included bill of materials lists the heatsinks that I was picking from.

Please note that this circuit board is quite large due to my attempt at handling various user requirements and power supply options. My last portion of the PCB was to include a fuse for each of the channels, but that meant that I had to dig through my packed boxes (moving) to find the fuse holder that I used in order to draw the device on the board. All someone has to do is connect a fuse inline between each R/G/B channel's output and the 1W LED, though, so I decided to get everyone the PCB.

Fortunately for me, I have finished my electrical engineering degree (yeah!). However, I'm now in the middle of a move to Vancouver Island near Victoria, BC.

I have a much more complicated version of this that is currently in use, but it doesn't handle the 26 kHz switching frequency like this linear design uses. I will provide additional circuits and PCBs when I get a less power-hungry driver created.

Again, please know that the goal with this project was to (1) provide a proof-of-concept Procyon interface, and (2) use readily-available parts (read: through-hole or DIP parts) so that most hobbyists could make this PCB.

For those who cannot download the attached .zip file, I have posted it on my FTP site as well for your convenience. I'd recommend that you download it soon as I don't know if my domain will transfer with me to Canada.

The URL to my FTP location is: http://ganz.blueelectronlabs.com/procyonIO_linear.zip

I'm going to flash my Procyon with the latest firmware now to reduce the buzzing noise and go strobe myself into bliss.

Enjoy with my best wishes,
--Scott Thompson

[Robert Austin]

Hi, Electronguy--

What a great project, and thanks a bunch for posting it here! Looks like it would make a good DIY kit... wonder if Sparkfun would be interested... it would be hard to change the PWM rate, as it's part of the audio interrupt service interrupt & would need to be moved to a separate one. Also, a higher sample rate makes for more accurate construction of the sine, pulse and triangle wave outputs.

Good luck with your next phase, and if you happen to be in the San Juan islands, do look us up! We can see Vancouver Island from where we are, on Orcas Island.

-Robert

[ted]

Hello,
Anyone successfully finished this project and can share the experience, please?
Thank you!
Ted

[Andy]

Hello,
Anyone successfully finished this project and can share the experience, please?
Thank you!
Ted

The info was in another thread, so I merged them to this thread. See above.

[ted]

The info was in another thread, so I merged them to this thread. See above.

Thank you for quick response! I saw Scott's DIY project and it's really great but it works with 1W LED only. PandoraStar/Ajna is 10W LEDs I believe and for me personally stronger light worked better than Limina's. The only problem with Pandora - it is very expensive!

Can this DIY project be recalculated for 10W LED? Is it going to be compatible with Limina / Kashina?
I am not an "electronics wiz" and would't mind to compensate time.

I tried to order MELs, but unfortunately they wrote they don't make them any more and no information about it not available.

Do you have any other information how it can be done by any chance?

I'm not a tech person but have just basic knowledge and idea how it works and was thinking using
Relay Module with Optocoupler Isolation Support like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K5D7XNW...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Any other suggestion or info you have and can share please?

Thank you!

[yentzee]

Old thread. I don't know if this is correct but isn't it possible to drive other LED's with it as well? I would imagine that one has to adjust the powersource accordingly if needed, recalculate the led resistor and maybe choose elektrolytcapacitors with a bit larger capacity. I am an absolute novicebut everything before the mosfet should be exactly the same shouldn't it?

[Andy]

With the correct modifications to the circuit I expect it can drive anything!